Category Archives: Wairarapa 25

Wairarapa 25

Brewtown and a visit to the Gallipoli Display

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Our first morning at Brewtown kicked off with a great wander around the place it’s huge! The bars are all built into old warehouses, so the ceilings soar more than four or five metres high, giving everything a real feeling of space and energy.

Booking in was a bit of a mission, though a funny one in hindsight. While we were still in Greytown, I tried to book online using my phone, only to discover (as you sometimes do with iPhones) that the site didn’t play nicely. After leaving a message on the answerphone for Phil, the Manager/Owner, I gave it a go on the iPad, and it worked perfectly first time!

The Boneface Bar
Te Aro
Brewing lessons at Te Aro

Five minutes later, Phil called me back. We had a great yarn about websites, the booking process, and funnily enough he knew this blog! Even weirder, as I popped out later to chat with someone in Greytown, I spotted a Brewtown ute… it turns out Phil was just on the other side of the hedge from us in his caravan. Small world!

Wild Kiwi Distillery
Wild Kiwi Distillery

Fiona was keen to catch the train into Wellington, and with the station just across the road, it couldn’t be easier. Unfortunately, trains weren’t running that weekend, so we jumped on a replacement bus which took just over an hour and actually quite comfortable.

Outside the train station
From the bus on the way into Wellington
Amazing Wellington Railway Station

We made a beeline for Te Papa, especially to see the Gallipoli exhibition, which Peter Jackson had a major hand in. It did not disappoint, incredible, moving, and completely immersive.

A famous Medic having to deal with another injured soldier.

Both Fiona and I come from staunch Army families, so the exhibition really hit home. The attention to detail, the storytelling, and the sheer size of the figures was breathtaking. Absolutely worth the visit.

Along the waterfront on the way to Te Papa

After exploring a few more of the museum’s exhibits, we stopped at a café before catching the bus back to Upper Hutt.

Click on the Gallery below for enlarged Te Papa Images  

Outside the train station
Upper Hut’s main street
From the bus on the way into Wellington
Amazing Wellington Railway Station
Along the waterfront on the way to Te Papa
A booby trap.
Rations
A famous Medic having to deal with another injured soldier.
A nurse who was looking forward to meeting her soldier brother finding out that he’d just been killed in action.
Looking back into the city

Back at Brewtown, it was time to pop into one of the craft bars though despite being at a beer haven, I found myself ordering a Chardonnay, while Fiona had a G&T.  Old habits die hard! The bar we picked was Te Aro Brewing Co, a great spot to unwind.

Upper Hut’s main street

The next day, Fiona caught up with an old friend at a local café, and I later joined them for lunch after strolling through the mall. Upper Hutt is a nice little town, easy to get around and very friendly.

The Bar right behind us, we’re parked to the left.

That night, we had dinner at Fermented, the restaurant literally 20 steps behind Rafe. Great atmosphere and even better food.

Click on the Gallery below for an enlarged Slideshow of Brewtown

A Chef busy at the Bodeface bar.
Looking along the outside decks of three Bars
The Boneface Bar
Brewing lessons at Te Aro
Te Aro Bar. We had an amazing shared platter here.
Te Aro
Te Aro
Wild Kiwi Distillery
Wild Kiwi Distillery
Wild Kiwi Distillery
At the Brewtown Leisure area.
Fiona walking back to the Truck
The Bar right behind us, we’re parked to the left.
After tea
Close to the action
The markets in action
Fiona getting the veges.

We were warned that the Farmers Market opposite us might get a bit noisy early in the morning, but we barely noticed a thing. It was super handy and full of good stuff. Fiona stocked up on fresh veges, which set us up nicely for the days ahead.

Close to the action
Fiona getting the veges.

After that, it was time to hit the motorway north. Our three days at Brewtown and in Wellington had been full of fun, flavour, and a bit of nostalgia too.

Rafe’s tracker map to Brewtown – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

Over the Rimutakas to High Tea

After the excitement of the balloons in Greytown, we stayed on for a couple more nights, hunkering down for some bad weather that, thankfully, never really arrived. That gave us time for another wander through the shops, always a treat in Greytown!

Click on any Image to Enlarge

The garden at Aston Norwood

On the Sunday (a public holiday), we decided to check out Carterton, just 15 minutes up the road. It was pretty quiet with most shops closed, but we found a café open, perfect excuse for a coffee and something to eat. After a quick stroll along the main road and a bit of window shopping, it was time to hit the road.

At Aston Norwood

Our next stop was Aston Norwood, a café, wedding venue, and garden centre on the downward run over the Rimutakas. We’d booked in for High Tea, something a bit different and very special.

The garden at Aston Norwood

For the past few months, we’ve been following a video blog by a Wellington couple, Mark and Fiona, who built a 51-metre Nordhavn and sailed it from Turkey around the Mediterranean. Fiona is now back in NZ running Aston Norwood, so we thought it would be rude not to stop by and support them!

Their Video Blog can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/@AwanuiNZ

The drive over the Rimutakas was uneventful, but I always enjoy passing through Featherston, even if it’s just a drive-through, it’s such a neat little town.

Looking over to the Garden centre at Aston Norwood

We arrived at Aston Norwood and found a good spot for Rafe in the carpark. Then it was time for High Tea: a rolling selection of delicious homemade cakes, scones, and savouries, all beautifully presented. While I’m not much of a tea drinker, the coffee was excellent!

The Garden centre at Aston Norwood

Afterwards, we stretched our legs with a stroll through the garden centre, a lovely way to walk off some of those treats.

From Aston Norwood, we carried on over the hill to Upper Hutt, where we planned a few nights at Brewtown. Built in a former industrial area, Brewtown has transformed into a vibrant hub of craft breweries, eateries, and entertainment, all within walking distance of the main shopping area and train station, super convenient.

The Bar just behind us
The Bar right behind us, we’re parked to the left.

We rolled in, plugged in, and settled Rafe into place before heading off to explore. With six or more breweries on site, each offering its own style of food and drink, there was plenty to see, taste, and enjoy.
More to come….

Rafe’s tracker map to Brewtown – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

Bulldozers, Boats and Balloons

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There are only a few places in New Zealand where boats are launched by bulldozers, and Ngawi is probably the most iconic. About half an hour south of Martinborough, this quirky fishing village is an absolute must-see if you’ve never been.

Click on any Image to Enlarge

Looking along the Beach

Before we left Martinborough, I tried several times to contact the local campground in Ngawi but never got a reply. As it turned out, the weather had shifted and with strong westerlies predicted, maybe it was for the best, it’s quite an exposed spot. Still, we decided to take a scenic detour on our way back to Greytown to check it out.

Looking down on the beach
Kids on the beach

The drive south from Martinborough is beautiful. As we cruised along the coast towards Ngawi, we passed through a string of charming, slightly weathered coastal settlements. The kind of places that made me think: “This is Old NZ.”

Easy retrieval. the whole process took minutes.
Looking along the Beach

Eventually, we rolled into Ngawi, and what a place it is! Picture a circular gravel beach, ringed with bulldozers lined up like soldiers, each paired with a massive fishing boat on a giant trailer with a huge drawbar. No ramps needed here, just clever Kiwi engineering making the most of what’s available.

Our grassy spot looking back towards Wellington
Behind our grassy spot

We found a spot to park up right on the beach in one of the grassy freedom camping areas, with views across to Wellington. Just around the corner, tucked in behind some trees, was a trailer café selling the freshest fish and chips, melt-in-your-mouth stuff! They were proud of their food, and rightly so, it was simply the best.

Ngawi Local shop opposite our park.
Amazing Baches

We sat on a bench beside Rafe, soaking up the view and enjoying lunch with a cup of coffee from the van. Pure bliss.

Afterwards, we took a wander past the bulldozers and down along the windswept beach. Such an incredible, rugged spot, unique and unforgettable.

We thought we’d carry on to the Cape Palliser Lighthouse, but a sign a few k’s down the road warned that it wasn’t suitable for long vehicles. With Rafe stretching over 8 metres (plus the bikes on the back), we decided to play it safe and turn around, heading back through Ngawi and north to Greytown.

Looking out towards Wellington

As we made our way up the coast, the weather started to close in from the west, there were clouds building, the light shifting but we’d had the best of it.

One of the Balloons sailing off above Greytown

Back at Greytown Campground, we caught up with Ken again and parked up. As we opened the vents and settled down for a well-earned G&T, we heard a loud whoosh.

Rising balloon

Looking up, we saw a hot air balloon rising up from the domain next door, the burners roaring as it lifted just above the trees, probably no more than 50 metres away. Then another, and another, followed, each one floating eastward over Greytown.

What an incredible end to a brilliant day.

Rafe’s tracker map to Ngawi – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

On the Bikes at Martinborough

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Martinborough has a real vibe about it, maybe it’s the vineyards, or the easy, flat roads perfect for biking between cellar doors. Either way, it’s got charm.

Click on any Image to Enlarge

We rolled into the main square a bit early for check-in, so we popped into the local museum. A super friendly guy welcomed us at the door and gave us a tour, which turned out to be fascinating. Funny twist, he was the brother of a journalist I used to work with at The Auckland Star. Small world!

The Martinborough Hotel

After the museum, the Martinborough Hotel (just across the road) was calling our name for lunch.

We had a quick wander around the square after lunch before heading to check in at the campground.

Us tucked in for the evening.
At Martinborough Top Ten

We’d booked a spot at the Top 10 Holiday Park, the only campground in town. After checking in, we reversed carefully into our site, just big enough at an angle so I could get the bikes off the rack. Plugged in, settled down, and ready for a great day of riding ahead. We had a couple of days’ clear weather before the next front was due.

Click on the Gallery below for an Enlarged Slideshow

Our bikes at Poppies in the vineyard.
Fiona all ready to get started 🙂
People enjoying themselves at Margrains
Other people at Poppies
Us tucked in for the evening.
The BBQ are in front of the showers and loos
Cabins too.
This was the VIP area.
In the main Square
In the centre of the Square getting ready for Anzac Day.

The next morning, the sun was out, so I got the bikes sorted, pumped up tyres, unpacked the gear, the works. While I was sorting the bikes stuff out, Fiona watched a Hot Air balloon sail past just behind Rafe across the sports field behind.

Last time we were here, we had a great lunch at Margrain’s, but this time we wanted to try something new. About 7–8 years ago we’d had a drink at Poppies but never made it back for a meal, I’d heard great things, so that was our lunch destination.

People enjoying themselves at Margrains

On the way, we stopped at Ata Rangi. I did a tasting and wow, their Chardonnay was like silk ($38 a bottle), dangerously nice! They had a top-shelf one at $70, even more refined, but we walked away with a bottle of the $38, yum!

Fiona all ready to get started 🙂
Other people at Poppies

Then it was on to Poppies. We got a table outside, under a clear blue sky in the shade. Just magic. We shared a big platter full of all sorts of goodies, followed by a shared dessert platter that was just as good. Fantastic service too, such a treat.

The Dessert platter!

On the way back, we stopped in at Margrain’s for a glass of Chardonnay and a coffee. It’s such a lovely spot, overlooking the vineyard with the café perched right on the edge.

In the centre of the Square getting ready for Anzac Day.

After another stroll around the square, we headed back to the campground and packed the bikes away, ready for the next day’s adventure.

A perfect day in paradise
Click on the map to enlarge

Rafe’s tracker map to Martinborough – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

Hunkering Down at Greytown

We’d been really lucky with the weather so far, but with a front on the way and rain in the forecast, we figured it was a good time to head to Greytown and check in with Ken at the Greytown Holiday Park.

Click on any Image for to Enlarge

These Caravans are effectively cabins you can stay in.
Lots of room at Greytown

This park is a real gem, set on a council reserve and just a short walk from the heart of town. We first met Ken around six years ago, and he’s been running the place brilliantly ever since. It’s competitively priced, relaxed, and nothing ever seems to be a problem.

Ken’s new project. New Caravans for accommodation.

Ken was telling me about his new project with some replica Heritage caravans he has setup for more accommodation. They’re fully powered and look very comfortable.

Inside the new caravans

The rain came and went, but with umbrellas in hand, it was easy enough to duck between the amazing little shops that line Greytown’s main street. We visited a few cafés, browsed through some boutique stores, and then popped into a gin tasting shop, as you do.

Amazing shops

We came away with a bottle of Greytown Gin. Fiona chose a variety called Frostbite, which seems to be a local favourite. It comes in a refillable hip-flask-style tin, perfect for future visits!

Click on the Gallery below for images of Greytown.

From the Soldiers Walk
The Soldiers memorial walk
Inside looking the other way.
Ken’s new project. New Caravans for accomodation.

There’s also a great little walkway that runs along the edge of the Holiday Park, which we think is called the Soldiers Memorial Walk. It’s a lovely shortcut into the camping area, and we used it often while we were there.

The Soldiers memorial walk

We’ve had some great times at this park over the years, and after two nights we even considered staying longer. But with Martinborough vineyards and some bike riding still calling, and the weather still holding, it was time to move on.

Rafe’s tracker map to Greytown – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

Parked in Parkland at Masterton

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On previous trips to Masterton, I’d always struggled to find decent parking for 8m Rafe anywhere near the main shopping area or even close.  It was a real treat to discover there’s now a new NZMCA park that solves all that!

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Lovely park

This was our first visit to the relatively new Masterton NZMCA Park, and it’s an absolute cracker. There’s a raised walking track built on a bund beside the river that leads to a swing bridge and right into a park that’s basically in the heart of town. It’s an easy 15-minute stroll into central Masterton.

Neighbours at Masterton

The park itself is well set up with a dump station, fresh water, and huge parking bays. It has to be one of the best we’ve stayed at.

The track with the river beside.

The next day, we wandered along the river into the park for a look around. My two-year-old grandson has recently developed a big fascination with trains, and sure enough there was a ride-on, small-scale diesel train doing loops through the gardens. I couldn’t resist grabbing a quick video to send to him. He’ll love it!

The lake around the train.
Looking along the river from the swing bridge.

After that, we explored the local museum, which is actually part of a wool shop complex. Tucked in alongside it is the Fire Museum, which turned out to be a real gem. Some of the displays were created by Peter Jackson’s crew, which added a bit of cinematic magic to the experience.

Click on the Gallery below to see more Images of Masterton

The ride on train
Looking along the river towards the suspension bridge.
Horse drawn Fire Appliance
In the wool display
Shearers in the Wool area.
Masterton

Right next door was a lovely little café, perfect for a relaxed lunch, and then straight next door again was the supermarket, so we stocked up the pantry too. Everything was super convenient.

We both found ourselves wondering whether we should just stay an extra night, but the wine trails of Martinborough and the boutique shops in Greytown were calling… so it was time to keep moving.

Rafe’s tracker map to Masterton – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

Windmills at the Red Barn

After a great night at Turangi, we hit the road heading south toward Masterton.

Click on any Image to enlarge

At the Red Barn

We weren’t entirely sure how far we’d get, but thought somewhere around Palmerston North would do nicely for the night. Several friends had raved about a Park Over Property called the Red Barn, so I gave them a ring. Colleen picked up, warmly welcomed us, and just like that, we were sorted for the night.

The turnoff for Palmerston North is just a few k’s past the Makohine Viaduct. Not far along that road is Vinegar Hill Campground, and the drive winds up over some pretty steep hills before dropping into long, straight roads with stunning views heading into Palmerston.

The Red Barn

I was very thankful for Rafe’s trusty 3L Iveco engine on those hills; it handled them like a champ.

We arrived at the Red Barn mid-afternoon, sunshine blazing. Colleen came out to meet us and show us where to park, carrying a big bag of feijoas, no less! I absolutely love those things. The smell alone took me straight back to being a wee fella in short pants, mowing the lawn around my parents’ feijoa trees… and inevitably mowing over a few fallen ones too.

Colleen was fantastic, helpful, and full of local knowledge. The park itself is nestled up near some hills that are absolutely covered in wind turbines. It’s a pretty awesome sight watching them all spinning away. Something quite peaceful about it.

We settled in with a sneaky G&T, watched some TV, and enjoyed the simple luxury of powered parking. Bliss.

The next morning, we set off again, aiming for Masterton via Pahiatua. We weren’t quite sure of the best route, and, armed with two GPS systems that completely disagreed, we managed to get ourselves properly lost. Classic!

Getting up close

Eventually, after backtracking and resetting things, one of the GPSs picked up the Fitzherbert turnoff, and up the hill we went, right into windmill country. Seeing them up close is something else, they’re absolutely massive, and when you’re standing underneath them with all the blades whooshing away, it’s pretty surreal.

We cruised through Pahiatua and rolled into Masterton again around mid-afternoon… and would you believe it, brilliant sunshine yet again! The weather forecast had been all doom and gloom, but so far, we were enjoying nothing but blue skies and couldn’t be happier.

Rafe’s tracker map to Red Barn – Armada GPS
Wairarapa 25

Away to the Sunny Wairarapa

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It’s been a wee while since we’ve both had a break, so we were really looking forward to heading down toward Masterton and Martinborough for a couple of weeks away.

Click on any Image to enlarge.

Tongariro on the way down.

We hit the motorway in perfect weather, with hardly any traffic thanks to the school holidays, a nice bonus!

Our first stop was Cambridge for fuel, and then we headed into the town centre for lunch. It was absolutely buzzing with people everywhere, very busy!

A really popular part of the park.

Back on the motorway heading south, we’d originally thought about stopping in Taupō, but with the school holidays and the V8 car races in town, we figured it was best to avoid the traffic chaos and carried on to Turangi.

Turangi NZMCA park

After stopping briefly in the Turangi township at one of our favourite coffee spots, we headed off to the NZMCA campground.

Turangi’s NZMCA camp is fantastic and even better now that they’ve got a dump station. The weather was stunning, though there were hints of bad weather brewing. Still, we had a great night there.

Ruapehu looking great

Next morning, we hit the road again, heading south via the Desert Road. It’s the first time in ages that I’ve seen the mountains so clearly and with no snow! We had to pull over and soak it in.

Lunch was at the Waiouru Army Museum, such a great spot. There’s good parking out the back for motorhomes too, which made it an easy and relaxing stop.

Rafe’s tracker map to Turangi – Armada GPS